Hi y'all, I'm new here.

I've had my Canon t2i for a few weeks, and agreed to take pics for my friend's band at a local bar Saturday (in 2 days). I thought I had many things figured out for taking awesome shots, but I am wrong apparently.

I need a super duper fast lesson on how to take moving pictures. I can't figure out how to up the aperature for one. Also, I'm not sure what setting to use, sports?  I want to get some cool hair flying in the air shots and them jumpin or whatever shots. I have "Canon t2i for dummies" but dang, it will take me a while to read it and most of all.....absorb things. It's allot to take in. So if I have a cheat sheet of some kind, i'd be soo relieved. I know that each situation will vary as to what you need to do and I will eventually know what settings to use. I know I will learn as I go, I just want to get on the road, so to speak.

I just want some help/suggestions to try. Thanks so much!

I looked at the threads, but I didn't see suggestions for settings ( even though like I said, even if I have to adjust those settings) I have a:

EF s 18-75,
EF s 55-250,
close up lenses I just got for birthday are:

Macro set +1, +2, +4 and 10x and  a 3 piece camera lens filter kit, 58mm UV filter, CPL, FLD.

I just got everything a few weeks ago so real new.

I think if I remember, macro isn't for moving things? For close ups only.

Here are some pictures I have taken using only sports setting.  I know they're boring, but I like these types of shots. 
I think I used Sports Setting and I love using the continuous setting.







A little blurring with PS CS3

Ok, so just a few more things.

I changed the aperature to like 500 and the ISO to like 800. If I read a few threads here right, that will be golden for me when taking pictures of things in motion ( like rock/metal bands and their long hair flying around) right?

If so, what setting would you use do you think? Sports?

I'm not very familiar with the TV and AV settings yet, if you think those are better though.

Lighting, there will be a lighting dude there but it's such basic stuff....lights switching off on bein on and off next to each other etc. No lights above them that move or anything I think. If I have to use my flash ( I do NOT have one you can put on the camera yet though), should I try portrait setting?


They have LOTS of noise on the stage, their HUGE banner, pop cans on the side, instrument cases I think, so I'm going to do my best but I know those will be distracting. I tend to like the blurry background but the person's face and maybe body being the focus. Thoughts?

I was just outside, taking pictures of the water melting off of ice, and got some cool shots I think. But I haven't put them on my laptop to see what they really look like yet.

Sorry so much, just want to make sure I'm on the right track with what i'm reading. 

Thanks rpavich! I just ordered it on Amazon and I have free 2 day shipping and upgraded to one day.

What is a better one (that won't break the bank right now)?

I ask because I'm sure I will want to go a couple steps up.

Though I know they can run a couple thousand dollars. WOW! Do any of you use ones that expensive? If so, can you tell me why and the advantages?

i soo appreciate the help!

So, please tell me this about this new lens you recommended rpavich if you would.

Ok....

It's a fixed length lens; a "prime" lens (as opposed to one that zooms; which is to say changes focal length.) The advantage is that it's light...and fast ("fast" means that the aperture opens wider and lets more light in than other lenses.) your kit lenses are relatively "slow" but they are good for situations where there is a lot of light...outside and such.)

1. Is it a faster shutter speed type thing that makes it better?

Well...not exactly...like I said...the "pipe" is larger and so more light get into the camera faster...and that's better..

Think of exposure like a triangle each aspect of the exposure recipe at a corner...you have to get a fixed amount of light into the camera to make a good picture...which will get you more light faster? A 2" PVC pipe or a drinking straw? The pipe of course...so if you use the PVC pipe to fill a bucket...you can fill that bucket in 1 second) and the drinking straw would take 2 minutes. The time interval is the shutter speed...and when it gets to slow...(as in the drinking straw) then motion blurs your pictures...the bucket needs the same amount of water in it...but the PVC will fill it faster so you only have to turn the valve on for 1 second to do it....) Does that make sense?

If the pipe is big...you don't need a slow shutter speed if the pipe is small...then you need a long shutter speed. The other part of the equation is ISO and that's sort of like the bucket efficiency. A bucket with a higher ISO fills faster and so that helps to get the water in the bucket also.

2. What setting (sports?) should it be on for the concert?

I don't know. I would use a high ISO like 800 or even 1600 and then turn the aperture down to the lowest number (making the pipe as large as possible) then I would see what shutter speed that got me...if it was acceptable (like 1/125 or higher) then you're in business. If not...then you have to change something and the only thing you can change is a higher ISO...I'd do it manually maybe or in TV mode to make darn sure that my shutter speed was the priority for the camera. If you use TV mode you set the shutter speed you want..and the camera decides the rest for you.

3. High ISO and High Aperature? If so, what should I start with and then go from there?

See above

4. Will I need a flash or will ths lens you recomended be enough most  likely (I won't hold you to anything, don't
worry)?

It should work in pretty low light...you'll have to find out...I'd dim my house lights and practice taking pictures (trying to simulate the club lighting.) and see what it will do.

Any other tips?

No...just be ready...practice before hand....have fun and try and take the shots when the lights are brightest to give yourself the best chance of a good exposure...

And take TONS of pictures....digital is free!

One thing he didn't mention, that's pretty important to growing as a photographer...

If it's not the M, Tv or Av setting on your camera, don't use it. Be in control of your shots. 

"P" doesn't mean "professional mode."   

Well I'd say I took over 400 pictures and tried all sorts of settings that night, I tried TV with flash I think and AV with flash and those seemed to work well at times.

I think my nifty fifty saved my butt!

I had some blurry pictures but opened up PS CS3 and sharpened and I think it really helped ( although I have a condition called Anterior Membrane Basement Dystrophy where the cornea and the top layer of your eye don't always stick together very well. This seems to mean that my vision is worse then usual at times and even my glasses don't work and there is nothing I can do about it. So here are some pictures. A couple of them I am posting the before and after and please let me know if they look good. Thanks much!

Finally, I'm saving up for the next step lens, but can't recall which one that is at this moment lol. :  ) You saved me by recommending the 50 mm!







Ok, I think I posted the right ones. The top one is the originl and the one below is sharpened in PS CS3. Can you see the difference?


 few more:






I think it's really not sharpened enough?





Whatcha think?







I know it's subtle changes, not sure it's enough?

Now, I don't wanna be told it's good or great if it's not, I don't work that way. It doesn't help me. So please, be honest, but polite of course lol. :  )

Those look ok....I think you did fine...

It would be good to put up the full size images and EXIF data so we can make more helpful comments.

What is EXIF data (super duper newbie here)? So you want the actual original? That won't bog the site down?

If so, the original and the sharpened version or just original?