You need more light! More light, and I would try to get the lights up higher, too.

Forget the work lights.  They are the most gosh awful kind of lights to use for any photo or video application.  They are harsh, specular, and contrasty even with diffusers.  I know many use them but they are not the right tool for the job

If on a real tight budget, you can make do very well with some 10" or 11" clamp type reflectors from the hardware store.  Make some solid stands out of 2x4's to clamp them on (tall stands) or look into these: 

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/48736-REG/Smith_Victor_401022_A10UL_Adapta_Light_250_Watt.html

You can use 60W or 150W bulbs in these and for a softer look get "Bright White" CFL's.  I use these in this Smith Victor unit:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/48735-REG/Smith_Victor_401018_A100_Ultra_Cool_10.html

These will take a pretty sturdy light stand to support them safely.  But look at B&H's 10' and 13' stands.

Get your model away from that wall so you don't get noticeable shadows and get the lights up higher.  The main part of the beam is hitting her at waist level.  Also it sometimes takes more light to get proper exposure on darker skinned people, just a fact of life.  A very good friend of mine got two all expenses paid trips to Africa to help set up studios because of his skill at doing stunningly well done portraits of black persons.

Test and refine.

Bif,

Thanks. Will the clamp lights give me enough light for the full body shots? I've seen people using the clip lights on the internet, but they are mainly doing head and shoulder shots.

Oh yeah, and also don't forget about the ability to do post production work as well. Im not sure if you have software for that or not, but it can really help fix issues you cant seem to resolve during the shoot.

When you say work lights I think of those ten dollar, 300W halogen lights from Home Depot...

Anyway, Bif, are those just the reflectors?

Smith-Victor A10UL 10" Adapta-Light (I take back my recommendation on this one).

Reflector, lamp socket, wooden handle, and adjustable clamp.  But on second look a minute ago they are not what I recommend.  The bulb it takes while having the standard screw base, has a long "neck" from there to where the bulb shape widens meaning a long narrow passage from the back of the reflector to the bulb socket.  I ran into this with one other design, I was able to "fix" it by drilling some extra holes and repositioning the internal bracket that held the socket.

Only one shape of bulb will fit.  And the adjustable clamp has a "ball" joint which is not stable enough on a light.

The A-100 is a unit that takes standard bulbs and CFL's with no problem, it is a somewhat heavy duty well built light for $82 and change, runs cool (even cooler with CFL's) and I can change the "character" of the light by switching between incandescent bulbs (while we can still get them) and CFL's for a softer look.

I had been used to using Photogenic StudioMaster II (studio strobe) at about a Grand a light in my main camera room so it has to say something that I am willing to settle for and work with SV gear these days (retired now and having fun).
 

 

I suggest more light, and also another lens, any f2.8 would be great.

Example of an indoor situation, f2.8, shutter 1/125, ISO 800:

handball slow motion test

Neon lights causes some flicker, but this setup is good, at least for me!